As you head deep into the desert, you’d be forgiven for mistaking Palm Springs for a lovely, sun-drenched mirage rising from the sand. This glittering city brings retro-glam and luxe living to the Coachella Valley.
WHERE TO STAY
Budget bohemians flock in droves to the überhip Ace Hotel & Swim Club (760-325-9900; acehotel.com), which debuted just last year with chic midcentury-modern accommodations starting at a surprisingly wallet-friendly $109. Book a room with a private patio and a quirky iglooshaped fireplace, then get ready to rock ’n’ roll because the options for fun abound at this summer camp for grown-ups. Play Ping-Pong on the porch and grab a drink at the Caravan bar; if you want to do a little shopping, pedal into town on a free bike. Prefer to lay low on-site? Let the Ace staff set you up with all the fixin’s for your own barbecue in front of one of the outdoor fire pits. Be dazzled by the rhinestone-encrusted pool table in the glittering lobby of the Riviera Resort & Spa (866-588-8311; psriviera.com), which transports old Hollywood glam to the sunny locale. Curl up on a mod sofa under one of the Rat Pack images adorning the nooks, sunbathe by the pool next to a retro poster of bikini-clad pinup girls lining the cabanas and send your worries away while unwinding at the Buddha Lounge at the mammoth palm-tree-studded SpaTerre. Try to score a patio room with a hammock at the Parker Palm Springs (760-770-5000; theparkerpalmsprings.com); all rooms have Hermès and Molton Brown products and whimsical Jonathan Adler décor. In addition to the requisite tennis, nearby golf course and swimming, the Parker also offers croquet and petanque, but for a really quaint experience, order the signature muddled lemonade at the old-fashioned stand by the pool. The lush grounds of the Viceroy Palm Springs (760-320-4117; viceroypalmsprings.com) make it a chic desert oasis. The Hollywood Regency-style property has elegant villas with private patios, ideal for large groups. The sleek Hotel Zoso (760-325-9676; hotelzoso.com), just a stone’s throw from downtown Palm Springs, is a swanky 162-room boutique property with unbelievably spacious accommodations, sexy red and black décor, piles of luscious pillows, rain showers and funky, colorful artwork scattered throughout.
WHERE TO EAT
French chef Bernard Dervieux presides over the haute cuisine turned out by the kitchen at Cuistot Restaurant (760-340-1000; cuistotrestaurant.com), which brings a touch of global flair to the California desert. While the dining room is beautiful, it faces stiff competition from the lovely models strutting their stuff in local designs during the Friday fashion lunch. If you’re seeking hearty, no-nonsense fare, tuck into The Gold Strike 49er, a 30-ounce porterhouse at LG’s Prime Steakhouse (760-416- 1779; lgsprimesteakhouse.com). The area’s finest meatery is not for the budget conscious, but mammoth portions and melt-in-your-mouth meals are worth every pretty penny. You’ll find inventive cuisine (Chilean sea bass on a banana leaf with pineapple Creole sauce) within equally inventive interiors (mirrored ceilings) at the iconic Wally’s Desert Turtle (760-568-9321; wallys-desert-turtle. com), where live piano music provides a lilting background soundtrack. Keep an eye out for the bronze statue of former mayor Sonny Bono on Mercado Plaza—just behind it, at the second-floor Matchbox Vintage Pizza Bistro (760- 778-6000; matchboxpalmsprings.com), you’ll find the best slice in the Coachella Valley. The Fire & Smoke version comes loaded with red peppers, onions, chipotle- tomato sauce and smoky Gouda cheese, and the happy hour menu is one of Palm Springs’ most popular—pair a half-price chicken-pesto pizza with a Mango Mango, a mango-infused vodka cocktail with pineapple and orange juices. The New York-style Sherman’s Deli & Bakery (760-325-1199; shermansdeli.com) has something of a cult following, thanks in part to its corned-beef sandwich and lemon tarts.
