Italian Dining: Ado
by Sari Anne Tuschman
Venice's newest Italian restaurant, Ado, is located in a quaint canary-yellow house set on an otherwise nondescript stretch of Main Street. And that is the only thing nondescript about Ado. Owner Paolo Cesaro greets you on the first level of the converted house, with its open kitchen and one lone table set by a window. The rest of the tables—13 in all—are located up a wooden staircase. “We wanted to create a place that felt like home when you walk in,” says Cesaro, who co-owns the restaurant—named for his grandfather— with fellow Italian Antonio Murè.
After the necessary double kisses and buona seras, you are seated at one of the tables—which, not surprisingly considering the intimate space—are all placed very close together. Naturally, it’s an Italian waiter who takes your order from the authentic Venetianstyle menu (Cesaro says the food is “from Rome up”), whose offerings range from the simple but delectable appetizer of prosciutto di Parma and burrata to truly exceptional pasta dishes, such as homemade tagliatelle with fired zucchini and tomatoes on a bed of walnut pesto and homemade pappardelle with rabbit ragu, porcini mushrooms and dried prunes.
Entrées such as grilled wild-boar tenderloin with a white Portand- raspberry sauce and grilled veal chop with melted burrata in a Marsala wine demi-glace round out the menu, which will change every few months. The entire experience of dining at Ado is one you won’t soon forget and will undoubtedly want to repeat immediately. 796 Main St., Venice, 310-399-9010; adovenice.com